Author: Camilla Friso
The 14th of April, at Luiss, our luxury association hosted an inspiring and thought-provoking event featuring two exceptional voices in contemporary fashion: Antonio Martino, founder of Couture Atelier on Via del Corso, and Matteo Cesarotti, founder of MMS SRL, a textile innovation hub, and co-founder of the experimental brand Chronos Corps. The event offered a rare behind-the-scenes look into the evolving world of fashion, its creative and commercial tensions and the career paths that shape it.
Though coming from different worlds, Martino firmly rooted in the traditions of haute couture and Cesarotti pushing boundaries in avant-garde prêt-à-porter, both designers brought forward sharp, authentic insights into what it means to build a fashion brand today.
Antonio Martino: Architectural Elegance in Service of the Feminine Form
Antonio Martino is no stranger to those who follow Italian couture. Known for his meticulous craftsmanship and a design philosophy that marries structure with softness, Martino’s creations reflect a deep admiration for the female form. Drawing inspiration from architecture, his work is characterized by clean lines, sculptural silhouettes and a commitment to timeless elegance.
Martino’s atelier on Via del Corso is more than just a workspace: it’s a sanctuary of creativity where each piece is tailor-made to express the uniqueness of the woman who wears it. During the event, Martino emphasized how haute couture is not simply about fashion, but about identity, storytelling and intimacy. “You’re not just designing a dress,” he noted. “You’re designing a moment, a memory, a version of someone’s most confident self.”
Matteo Cesarotti: The Future of Fashion is Now
On the opposite spectrum stood Matteo Cesarotti, representing a new generation of fashion entrepreneurs who merge concept, function and philosophy. Through MMS SRL, Cesarotti is involved in rethinking the textile supply chain and sustainability practices. But it’s through Chronos Corps, the avant-garde brand he co-founded, that his artistic voice truly emerges.
Chronos Corps explores fashion as a dystopian, brutalist art form, merging genderless silhouettes with futuristic themes, often challenging the notions of beauty, utility and wearability. As Cesarotti explained, “Fashion is a mirror of our times and, sometimes, a provocation. It doesn’t always need to be beautiful but it must be meaningful.”
Themes Explored
The dialogue between Martino and Cesarotti was both respectful and electric, highlighting key contrasts and common ground across the following themes:
● Fashion Business & Brand Identity
Both designers stressed the importance of authenticity and vision when building a brand. For Martino, this means preserving the heritage and emotion of couture. For Cesarotti, it means innovation, collaboration and daring to be uncomfortable. Their differing approaches illuminated the importance of knowing one’s audience while staying true to core values.
● Behind the Scenes of Ateliers and Showrooms
Martino opened a window into the intimate, slow-paced world of the couture atelier, where hours of handcrafting meet emotional client interactions. In contrast, Cesarotti shared the practicalities of managing a more fluid, modular showroom environment that needs to constantly adapt to changing consumer behaviors, trends and technologies.
● Haute Couture vs. Prêt-à-Porter
This was one of the most compelling moments of the event: the healthy, constructive contrast between two radically different fashion languages. Martino defended the timelessness and cultural significance of couture. Cesarotti responded by championing prêt-à-porter as the democratization of design: fashion that’s accessible, wearable and reactive.
● Creative Vision vs. Commercial Strategy
A key takeaway from both speakers was the importance of compromise. While Martino spoke about maintaining artistic purity and trusting a niche audience, Cesarotti acknowledged the pressure to innovate within budget constraints and the need to build community through story and identity rather than just product.
● Fashion Career Paths
The event closed with a conversation on the future of fashion professionals. Martino advocated for young designers to immerse themselves in traditional craftsmanship and apprenticeships. Cesarotti, meanwhile, encouraged multidisciplinary learning and urged students to challenge norms, explore hybrid roles, and stay uncomfortable.
A Celebration of Contrasts
What made this event truly special was not just the insights shared, but the contrast of philosophies, the tension between tradition and innovation and the mutual respect between two creatives at opposite ends of the spectrum. It reminded everyone in the room that fashion is not one thing: it is an ecosystem of ideas, aesthetics and intentions. Whether you are drawn to the timeless beauty of couture or the radical experimentation of avant-garde fashion, this event reaffirmed that both have a vital role to play in shaping the industry’s future. Our luxury association is proud to have created a space for this kind of exchange where different visions don’t clash, but coalesce into new ways of seeing, thinking and designing.
